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Using Broody Hens
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by Jennifer Floyd
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I put my broodies in 4X4x4 cubicles, with only one side wire. (I have a double row of these I use for cockerels &
broodies). I use a covered cat litter box, bedded in grass hay, rounded into a smooth bowl inside, like the hen makes. Hens like to go broody in darker nests, with 8 eggs being the preferred
minimum; I leave (marked) junk or fake eggs in the main nest to encourage broodiness, then move the hen when she goes broody (stays on nest all night 1-2 nights in a row, fluffs & complains) - move the fake eggs the first night, then if she's still solid after being moved, give her the good eggs the second night. Don't give her new eggs the 1st night in case she doesn't stick, & also hens don't like a bunch of ice cold eggs on their undersides when they are already upset about moving (don't blame them). They are more likely to move well with warm eggs. Don't leave the flashlight on when you set her in the new nest - all should be as dark as possible.
Asils will set indefinitely, health permitting - I have hatched 3 clutches in a row from them, & Moderns do well too; Wyandottes set well, but after hatching you can't reset them easily, they want to get off & raise chicks once they have felt them. The others seem more philosophical about them turning back into eggs :)
Cochin x Silkies are good at taking a staggered hatch, where you move in new chicks every day. The others I stockpile in a brooder until all are hatched, before putting them in the growing pen (at night) with the mother hen. A week's age diff. is no problem, 10 days is max. (& some hens won't go for it if they're different).
The night after they've hatched (or most of them have), move them out of the box, into the pen you'll raise them in (I use 4x8 pens) I put a small piece of plywood (2x4 ft) leaned against one side for security, & the chicks & hen under that. Don't try to raise the chicks with the other hens, or your non-broody adults will probably eat them. |
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